We launched CONCEALED 2.0 and asked Lilia Kosyreva, the designer of Zidans, to talk about the collection's concept, prints, and new products.

"The difference between the basic and printed collections at Zidans is like chapters of the same story," Lilia explains. "Print collections allow me as a designer to focus on working with color. I have more freedom, and there are no limitations by the fabric manufacturer's colour palette or the product's structure in placing a particular colour spot. In basic collections, there's a greater focus on shapes, structures, and functional features." Lilia adds, "There is also operational logic to this because the time for releasing printed collections is also used to adjust models from the basic collection based on customer feedback, as well as to start developing new collections."

CONCEALED and the previous collection, "Stained in Print," are inspired by the textures of the city. We were curious why this story is so essential to Lilia. She confirms the resemblance; however, Lilia mentions that different reflections stand behind the collections. "'Stained in Print' refers to the long wait for transition from winter into spring and a sort of continuous construction. "It associatively reminded me of how I perceived ballet during those years: there is no end to the efforts you can apply — you can always do more, jump higher. And this continuous work becomes a part of your life, similar to the long winter in Moscow." 

Stained in Print collection

The starting point for CONCEALED was the scaffold netting on one of the buildings in the center of Moscow that Lilia passed by for five years. The idea that the same entity could protect a pedestrian and at the same time conceal what is happening behind the mesh touched Lilia. It corresponds with theatre reality:  Everyone sees the theatre curtain that separates the audience and the stage. But, only the chosen ones know what is behind it. Moreover, Lilia noticed that artists could use the netting as a canvas for street art.

The rebellion of street artists is reflected through the collection's prints, which resemble graffiti, paint strokes, and protective canvas. The prints are based on photographs of central Moscow streets and buildings covered with facade netting for many years.

“Initially, street artists signed the nettings, and I "signed" the photographs, transforming them into the resulting prints, incorporating my impressions from the Pimenov exhibition I saw in the New Tretyakov Gallery on Krymsky Val,” — Lilia says.

Y. Pimenov, "Galina Ulanova as Giselle", 1960, Oil on canvas

The placement of the print is random and unique for each item. Every color has two variations of prints: strokes and spray. According to Lilia, intuitively, the more intense, rich-in-elements print—spray—was used for items covering a smaller area of the body, such as short skirts and shorts, while the more expansive and subdued print—strokes—was used for everything else.

In the first drop of CONCEALED, we applied prints to basic models of Zidans items and also created new models: wrap skirt with ribbon and two-piece skirt.

Lilia explains that wrap skirt with ribbon is a continuation of the idea of a net hanging on a rope: when a more elastic, "strong" material dictates the direction of a lighter and more flexible one.

Technologically the item wasn’t that easy to make. Achieving the same shade in printing on different fabrics and using different equipment is challenging, and it's difficult to sew together fabrics of different densities. As a result, the various textures give the product versatility in movement and additional pleasure when tying the ribbons. In this model, instead of the usual chiffon belt, we used a textured printed grosgrain ribbon is—this is an innovation among Zidans models.

Two piece skirt is also a new model with a similar concept: the skirt hangs on the body, much like facade netting, covering both sides of the "facade" of the body.

It may seem straightforward from a development standpoint. In reality, it wasn’t easy to create a silhouette that wouldn't be too revealing on the sides, take into account the anatomy of the human body—which is still different from a building—and fit this whole structure onto an elastic band. As a result, an alternative version of the traditional elastic waist skirt was created, which is not felt on the body but still creates a familiar silhouette.

On March 20, 2024, we released the second drop of the CONCEALED collection, adding new items: translucent Ziphirus leggings and translucent Rashguard T-shirt (pink and graphite), T-leotard (steel_spary, asphalt_strokes and ink_strokes), and two new models: legwarmers and an extra long wrap skirt with elastic waist.

The knitted legwarmers with the "knitted_asphalt" pattern quickly warm up leg muscles during rehearsals. As an accessory, they resonate well with the idea of protection and framework and seamlessly fit into the collection's concept.

"We came up with a special knitting technique for the elastic band at the top of the legwarmers to ensure they stay securely in place without squeezing the thigh," Lilia explains. "We spent a long time perfecting the fit of the legwarmers over the foot since they are worn over ballet slippers and pointe shoes."

The new wrap skirt with an elastic waist is a “one for all” skirt! It’s an extra-long, single-layer skirt with a slight wrap and a belt that allows for adjustment of fit, skirt length, and silhouette.

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